← Recipes

Traditional method

Mead

Honey wine

Loading ratings…

Mead is an alcoholic drink made by fermenting diluted honey with yeast, then racking and ageing it. The honey, not refined sugar, is what makes it mead.

A small glass of still pale-amber mead, made from fermented diluted honey, with honeycomb softly out of focus behind it.

Mead is more than fermented sugar water

Mead is an alcoholic drink made by fermenting diluted honey. Yeast converts the available sugars into ethanol and carbon dioxide, and the honey also supplies flavour that sugar and water cannot. A ferment of refined sugar and water can produce alcohol, but the honey is what puts a drink in the mead category.

Honey is not a standard sugar source. Its composition and the nutrients it carries vary from one honey to the next, and reviews of mead production describe yeast-nutrition problems and fermentations that stall. That variation is why makers add nutrient and why the same method gives different results with different honeys. The sources do not name one yeast strain for all mead.

Sources for this section

How the make works

Honey is warmed in a water bath because crystallised honey dissolves slowly in cold water, and the must is mixed until no dark and light layers show. It is then left to cool before the yeast goes in. The homebrew tutorial pitches the yeast once the must is at 60 to 70 F (15.5 to 21 C), aerates it once by shaking at that point so the yeast can multiply, and from then on avoids splashing so that oxygen does not stale the mead.

Nutrient is added after pitching on a staggered schedule, which gives the yeast a steady supply through the ferment rather than a single early dose. The airlock lets carbon dioxide out and keeps air out. Bubbling usually starts within 24 hours, but slowing or stopping bubbles does not by themselves mean the fermentation is finished.

After two to three weeks the mead is racked off the yeast into a second vessel with as little headspace as possible. Fermentation finishes there and the mead clears. Hydrometer readings that stay steady over one to two weeks show that the sugar has stopped changing, and only then is the mead packaged. A still mead needs no priming sugar or forced carbonation.

Sources for this section

Honey strength, yeast and temperature

FAO gives a rule of thumb of 2.3 kg of honey per 100 litres of water for each percent of alcohol by volume wanted. Expressed as honey sugar solids, 21 percent gives a dry mead of about 12 percent alcohol and 25 percent gives about 14 to 15 percent. Sugar beyond what the yeast uses stays in the drink as sweetness. FAO recommends clean soft rain or well water boiled first, since a public supply may carry minerals or chemicals that change the flavour.

It advises 0.5 to 2 percent active, acid-resistant champagne or brewer's yeast, a starter culture for larger batches, and not bread yeast. Fermentation should run without air in a vessel sealed with a lock, because if oxygen gets in the mead will turn into vinegar. FAO keeps the must at 20 to 25 C and never above 28 C: warmer temperatures speed fermentation but yield less alcohol, and cooler ones slow it and can stop it. Fermentation takes roughly one month, or until no more gas leaves the lock, and the mead is decanted once it slows to avoid bitterness from dead yeast.

Sources for this section

Clarifying and ageing

Mead can be cleared with tannins, bentonite, egg white or very fine filtration. Boiling the must before fermentation removes most of the proteins that cloud it, but also much of the honey aroma. FAO ages mead in oak barrels, which it prefers, or in bottles, with maturity at 6 months to 3 years and at least 18 months recommended.

Its worked example dilutes honey to 21 percent solids, adjusts the pH to 3.7 to 4.0, adds nutrients and ferments 150 litres in a 200 litre oak barrel at 18 C with 0.5 percent active yeast. After 6 months it is filtered, its total acidity set to 0.6 percent, pasteurised at 63 C for 5 minutes and bottled hot. Mead can also be turned into vinegar with Acetobacter aceti at 20 to 25 C, taking days to months.

Sources for this section

What the history shows and does not show

Archaeologists have reported a mixed fermented drink containing honey alongside cereal and fruit, called Nordic grog. It supports one beverage context, not a pure mead and not the beginning of mead. A transcription of Susanna Packe's 1674 household book includes one entry titled White Meade; its wording after a rest is ambiguous, so it is evidence of one text and not of a method to follow or of how widespread mead was.

The sources give no single origin, continuous history or season for mead, and honey harvest varies with region and beekeeping practice.

Sources for this section

Limits of the sources

The homebrew tutorial and the separate named dry varietal recipe it links to are examples from one publisher and not a universal method. A hydrometer and airlock help a maker watch a batch, but they do not independently show that it is safe to package or how long it will keep. A package that still holds fermentable sugar can develop pressure if fermentation continues. The sources give no universal alcohol, endpoint, pressure or storage limit.

Sources for this section

History

An archaeological study of a Nordic grog reports a mixed fermented drink made with honey alongside cereal and fruit. That supports one archaeological beverage context and is not proof of a pure mead or of where mead began. A Folger transcription of Susanna Packe's 1674 household book contains a single entry titled White Meade whose wording after a rest is ambiguous. The sources give no origin, continuous history or season for mead, and honey harvest varies by region and beekeeping practice.

Ingredients

Yield 19 L · Scaling: source batch only

HoneyWarm the honey containers in a water bath to liquefy crystals, keeping water out of the containers, and stir it into the water until no dark and light layers remain.
Amount not stated
The tutorial gives no honey weight. FAO's rule of thumb is 2.3 kg of honey per 100 litres of water for each percent of alcohol by volume wanted, and it puts a dry mead of about 12 percent alcohol at 21 percent honey sugar solids and 14 to 15 percent alcohol at 25 percent.
WaterStart with 2 to 3 gallons in the fermenter, mix in the honey, then top up to the full volume.
19 L
The total must volume of the tutorial's batch is 5 gallons. FAO recommends clean soft rain or well water, boiled first.
Wine or mead yeastRehydrate dry yeast following the maker's directions.
Amount not stated
No strain or amount is given in the tutorial. FAO gives 0.5 to 2 percent active, acid-resistant champagne or brewer's yeast and says bread yeast is not suitable.
Yeast nutrient (optional)Add after pitching, on a staggered schedule.
Amount not stated
No amount is given. FAO lists urea, ammonium phosphate, cream of tartar and tartaric and citric acids, and says they are unnecessary when half the water is replaced with fruit juice.

Method

Risks and precautions · Standard risk
Packaging before fermentation has finished

A bottle or keg that still holds fermentable sugar can develop pressure if fermentation continues, and a slowing airlock does not show that fermentation is finished.

Hazard source
Oxygen turning mead to vinegar

FAO warns that if oxygen gets into the fermenting must the mead will turn into vinegar.

Hazard source

Confirm completion with hydrometer readings that stay steady over 1 to 2 weeks before bottling.

Control source

Ferment without air in a vessel sealed with a fermentation lock, and rack with minimal headspace.

Control source

The sources give no universal alcohol, endpoint, pressure or storage limit for mead; a steady hydrometer reading is the only completion check they describe.

A quiet airlock, a clear liquid or a pleasant smell does not show that fermentation has finished.

  1. Clean all equipment with an unscented cleanser, then sanitise everything that will touch the must.
  2. Warm the honey containers in a water bath so crystals liquefy, keeping water out of the honey.
  3. Fill the primary fermenter halfway with water, about 2 to 3 gallons, and stir in the honey until it is dissolved.
  4. Top up to the full 5 gallons (19 L) to make the must and mix well. Dark and light layers mean the honey is not fully dissolved.
  5. Let the must cool to 65 to 75 F (18 to 24 C). If a hydrometer reading is wanted, take it from a sample that is not returned to the fermenter.
  6. When the must is at 60 to 70 F (15.5 to 21 C), pitch the yeast, add the nutrient, and mix and shake the fermenter a few times to aerate it. After this, avoid splashing.
  7. Seal the fermenter with an airlock filled with sanitiser or high-proof alcohol and keep it at 60 to 70 F, cooler being preferred. Bubbling should start within 24 hours.
  8. After 2 to 3 weeks, when bubbling slows or stops, rack the mead off the yeast into a sanitised secondary vessel with an auto-siphon, leaving as little headspace as possible.
  9. Age the mead in the secondary vessel with minimal disturbance while it finishes fermenting and clears. A few weeks to a few months of bulk ageing is a suggested start.
  10. Confirm that fermentation is finished by hydrometer readings that stay steady over 1 to 2 weeks, then bottle or keg. A still mead needs no priming sugar or forced carbonation. Bottle ageing before drinking is optional.

Conditions

Yield19 L
Fermentation14–30 days
Temperature15.5–21°C
Temperature controlAmbient, monitored

Places

Unknown

Relationship not established · Place not established

The sources describe mead as made wherever honey is kept and give no single origin or season; the archaeological evidence is for a mixed drink, not for pure mead.

Related

Community

No community contributions have been published for this entry yet.

Share what you made

Sign in to contribute. Published comments and photos are free to read.

Sources