Matnakash

Yield 2 large flatbreads · Scaling: source batch only

Method

1. Mix the all-purpose flour with the cool water by hand or with a dough hook on low speed, just until no dry flour remains, about 1 to 2 minutes. Cover and rest for 1 hour.
2. In a heatproof bowl, stir the rye flour or whole-wheat flour into the boiling water until a thick gel forms. If it remains thin, the source suggests heating it in a loosely covered bowl in 30-second microwave intervals, stirring each time. Cover and cool to room temperature for at least 30 minutes.
3. Add the cooled paste, salt and instant yeast to the flour-and-water mixture. Knead until smooth and moderately sticky. With a stand mixer this takes about 8 to 10 minutes on medium; by hand, the source gives about 3 to 5 minutes.
4. Transfer the dough to a covered bowl and rest for 30 minutes. With a wet hand, stretch a section up and fold it into the center; repeat 8 to 12 times, turning the bowl a quarter-turn between folds. Cover and rest 30 minutes. Repeat this fold-and-rest sequence twice more.
5. After the third fold, look for the dough to reach about one and a half times its original volume. If it has not, cover and leave it at room temperature for a further 30 to 60 minutes, until that expansion is reached. Cover tightly and refrigerate for 15 to 24 hours.
6. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured or greased surface. Divide it in half, about 460 g each. Gently round each piece, cover and rest seam-side down for 20 minutes.
7. Dust two bannetons or towel-lined bowls generously with rye or whole-wheat flour. Shape the rounds into tight boules, place seam-side up in the baskets and cover. Proof at room temperature until puffy and about one and a half times their starting volume; the source estimates 1 to 3 hours depending on room temperature.
8. About 45 minutes before baking, heat a baking stone or steel on an upper-middle oven rack at 475°F / 246°C. Whisk the yogurt and egg together for the wash.
9. Dust the underside of one dough round and a 16 by 12 inch sheet of parchment with rye or whole-wheat flour. Turn the round onto the parchment and gently stretch it into an 11 by 7 inch oval, keeping the outside inch thicker than the middle.
10. Spread about half the yogurt-and-egg wash over the oval, leaving a narrow bare rim. Press a furrow around the dough about three-quarters of an inch inside the edge, pressing through to the parchment. Make 4 to 6 lengthwise furrows about an inch apart; rotate the parchment 30 to 45 degrees and press four diagonal furrows across them. Repeat the grooves at least twice so they are well defined.
11. With fingertips in the outer furrow, gently pull the edges outward to enlarge the oval to about 12 by 8 inches and expose some of the perforations. Transfer the parchment and dough with a peel or inverted baking sheet onto the hot stone or steel.
12. Bake until evenly golden, about 10 to 12 minutes. Move to a wire rack and cool for 30 minutes before slicing. Shape and bake the second loaf in the same way.
13. Serve warm or at room temperature. The source suggests olives, pickled vegetables and Armenian string cheese as accompaniments. It says the bread is best the day it is baked; wrap leftovers for several days at room temperature or freeze for longer storage.

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