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Ssal-jocheong (rice syrup)

쌀조청 · jocheong · rice syrup

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A Korean rice syrup: cooked rice is converted by barley malt in a long warm hold, strained, and the sweet liquid is boiled down until it pours like maple syrup.

Photograph of Ssal-jocheong (rice syrup).

A sweetener made from rice and malt

Ssal-jocheong is a Korean rice syrup, sold and made at home as a sweetener for drinks, desserts and seasoning. It is the thick, pale-amber counterpart of the thinner rice drink sikhye, made from the same two ingredients, cooked rice and barley malt powder. Where sikhye is served cold as a drink, the syrup is the concentrate: the sugars formed in the conversion are kept, and most of the water is boiled away.

The syrup is sweet because the malt's enzymes convert the rice starch into smaller sugars during the warm hold. The conversion is the stage that decides the flavour, and the boil that follows concentrates the result. Two separate stages therefore set the outcome, and each one has its own temperature and its own endpoint.

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The conversion hold

The cooked rice is spread into eight cups of water at about 140°F (60°C), and the barley malt powder is added before the lid goes on. After an hour the mixture has fallen to about 120-130°F (49-54°C), so it is reheated on medium heat for two to three minutes to 135-145°F (57-63°C) and then the heat is turned off. The reheating is repeated each hour. Over six hours in all the mixture spends its time between 110°F and 145°F (43-63°C), until the liquid is thin and sweet and the rice has broken down to the texture of wet paper.

The rice-cooker version follows the same logic on a warm setting, with the lid opened for the reduction. The temperature of that cooker's warm setting is not stated in the source, so the liquid itself has to be measured.

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Straining, boiling and the endpoint

The mixture is strained through hemp cloth or doubled cheesecloth, twisting and squeezing the solids. About three and a half quarts of liquid come through, and the solids are discarded. The liquid is then boiled for 80 to 90 minutes, until a little more than a quart remains, and then for a further 10 to 20 minutes, until small foamy bubbles grow to about half an inch across and a thermometer reads 200-220°F (93-104°C).

At the endpoint the syrup falls from the spoon in a thick, steady stream, like maple syrup. An over-cooked syrup goes hard, and the source's remedy is to thin it with a little water and boil it again. The source gives its endpoint in bubbles, temperature and pour rather than as a measured sugar concentration, so the finished syrup's sugar content is not recorded here.

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Storage and open questions

The finished syrup is poured into a glass or ceramic jar and refrigerated. The source gives a keeping time of up to three months in the refrigerator, which belongs to this method and this concentration. No yield for the rice-cooker version is given beyond about a cup and a half, and the scaling of the batch is not established.

A brewing kettle could carry the warm conversion, with the syrup finished in a wide pan; this is a proposed adaptation that has not been tested, and it is not part of the documented method above.

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History

No dated source for ssal-jocheong was read for this page, so no period of attestation is recorded.

Ingredients

Yield 3.5 cup · Scaling: source batch only

Short-grain white ricewashed until the water runs clear
1.18 L5 cup as recorded
2¼ pounds
1.18 L5 cup as recorded
1.89 L8 cup as recorded
Barley malt powder
473 mL2 cup as recorded

Method

Risks and precautions · Standard risk

The three-month refrigerated keeping time belongs to this method and this concentration. It does not transfer to a thinner or differently made syrup.

The endpoint is set by bubbles, a thermometer and how the syrup pours, not by a measured sugar concentration. Over-cooked syrup sets hard and is thinned with a little water and boiled again.

  1. Cook the washed rice with 5 cups of water, covered, over medium-high heat for 12 minutes, then low for 10 minutes; fluff it.
  2. Add 8 cups of water at about 140 °F (60 °C), then the barley malt powder; close the lid.
  3. After an hour the mixture has fallen to about 120–130 °F (49–54 °C); heat on medium for 2–3 minutes to 135–145 °F (57–63 °C) and turn off. Repeat the reheating each hour; in all the mixture spends 6 hours between 110 °F and 145 °F (43–63 °C), until thin and sweet and the rice is like wet paper.
  4. Strain through hemp cloth or doubled cheesecloth, twisting and squeezing; discard the solids (about 3½ quarts of liquid).
  5. Boil the liquid about 80–90 minutes, until a little more than a quart remains, then 10–20 minutes more until small foamy bubbles become bubbles about ½ inch across and a thermometer reads 200–220 °F (93–104 °C).
  6. Remove from heat; the syrup should fall in a thick, steady stream like maple syrup. If over-cooked and hard, thin with a little water and boil again.
  7. Transfer to a glass or ceramic jar and refrigerate.

Conditions

Yield3.5 cup
Fermentation6 h
Temperature43–104°C
Temperature controlMulti-stage

Places

Korea

Traditional preparation · Country evidence

Association through a Korean cooking writer; not a claim of origin.

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