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Bengal chetney sauce

Chetney sauce, Bengal receipt · Chetney sauce (Modern Cookery for Private Families)

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Eliza Acton's Bengal receipt for chetney sauce: stoned raisins and a hard acid fruit pounded with brown sugar, ginger, salt, cayenne and garlic, then thinned with vinegar to the consistence of thick cream.

A thick amber-brown raisin and tart-fruit chutney in a plain bowl with a corked glass bottle, recalling Eliza Acton’s 1845 British receipt.

Overview

Bengal chetney is Acton's name for a sharp, sweet and hot sauce of raisins and a hard sour fruit, sharpened with vinegar and spiced with ginger, cayenne and garlic. It is one of the chutney-type sauces in the store-sauce chapter of Modern Cookery for Private Families.

The recipe is a British cook's version. Acton does not describe it as an Indian method, and it should not be read as one.

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Method in the source

The raisins and the acid fruit are chopped and pounded. The brown sugar, ginger, salt and cayenne are ground separately in a mortar and then worked into the fruit one at a time. Vinegar is added slowly until the sauce has the consistence of thick cream, and the sauce is bottled with the garlic.

The first sentence of the recipe names crab apples or sour apples and unripe bullaces, with a note that any hard acid fruit will do. The mango, which Acton says is used in India, is one of the fruits she lists as an alternative.

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Variants and keeping

Acton gives a second Bengal chetney built on gooseberries, tamarinds, green apples, salt, raisins, brown sugar, ginger, chilies and garlic, with a pint and a half of vinegar and the juice of three large lemons. She also says that ripe red chilies and tomatoes are mixed into the sauce in some versions.

She advises that the sauce keeps better if it is left in gentle heat for a week or two, either beside the fire, in the sun or in a very slow oven, in a jar or in bottles kept well sealed from the air. These are her instructions. This page records them and does not test them.

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History

Acton gives the sauce under the heading Bengal Receipt in Modern Cookery for Private Families. She calls it a favourite oriental sauce compounded in many ways, and says some acid fruit is essential to it. The recipe records a British cookery writer's version of a South Asian style of sauce, not a definitive account of Indian chutney.

Ingredients

Stoned raisinschopped small
113 g4 oz as recorded
Crab apples or other hard acid fruitsour apples or unripe bullaces may be used; chopped small and pounded well
227 g½ lb as recorded
Coarse brown sugarground fine in a mortar
113 g4 oz as recorded
57 g2 oz as recorded
Saltground fine in a mortar
57 g2 oz as recorded
Cayenne pepperground fine in a mortar
57 g2 oz as recorded
Garlicdivided into cloves, put into the bottles
28 g1 oz as recorded
Vinegar
Amount not stated
added gradually until the sauce is the consistence of thick cream

Method

  1. Stone four ounces of good raisins and chop them small with half a pound of crab apples, sour apples, unripe bullaces or another hard acid fruit.
  2. Grind the brown sugar, powdered ginger, salt and cayenne separately in a mortar, as fine as possible.
  3. Pound the fruit well, then mix in the spices one by one.
  4. Beat everything together until the mixture is perfectly blended.
  5. Add vinegar gradually until the sauce has the consistence of thick cream.
  6. Put the sauce into bottles with an ounce of garlic divided into cloves, and cork it tightly.

Places

United Kingdom

Historical attestation · Country evidence

Recipe in a British cookery book; it attests Acton's adaptation, not an Indian chutney tradition.

India

Documented use · Country evidence

Acton's note says the mango is used for this sauce in India. The recipe itself is not an Indian method.

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