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Mole negro

Black mole · Mole negro oaxaqueño

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Mole negro is the darkest and most elaborate of Oaxaca's seven moles: dried chiles and seeds are toasted and charred, ground with nuts, spices, bread and chocolate, then fried and simmered into a thick black sauce.

Photograph of Mole negro.

Overview

Mole negro is the best-known of the seven moles of Oaxaca. Its name means black mole, and the colour comes from deliberately charred chile seeds and, in the traditional recipe, the rare chilhuacle negro chile.

The sauce is a thick paste rather than a stock. Several dried chiles, seeds, nuts, bread, plantain and chocolate are toasted, ground, fried and simmered. It is one of the most complex moles, with twenty or more ingredients in many recipes.

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History

The sauce draws on Indigenous ingredients and on later colonial additions. Cinnamon, cloves, black pepper, almonds and raisins arrived through the trade routes, including the Manila galleons, and the mixture was refined in the convents of Puebla and Oaxaca.

Puebla and Oaxaca both claim the origin of the mole family, and the accounts do not settle the question. Whether chocolate was an early ingredient is also debated.

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Preparation

Cooks clean, seed and toast each chile separately. Under-toasting leaves the sauce flat and over-toasting produces bitterness, so the chiles are watched closely. Some seeds are charred for colour.

The toasted chiles are soaked and ground with fried onion, garlic, tomato, nuts, seeds, bread, plantain and spices. The paste is fried in fat, thinned with broth and simmered slowly until it is thick and glossy.

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Variants and related sauces

Mole negro differs from the other Oaxacan moles: mole coloradito is brick-red, mole amarillo is yellow and mole verde is green. Recipes for mole negro vary widely, and cascabel or other dried chiles often stand in for chilhuacle.

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Use

In Oaxaca it is prepared for patron-saint feasts, for the dead and for funerals.

Sources for this section

History

Mole negro draws on Indigenous ingredients and later colonial additions. Accounts of the trade say cinnamon, cloves, black pepper, almonds and raisins reached Mexican kitchens through trade routes, including the Manila galleons, and that the blend was refined in the colonial convents of Puebla and Oaxaca.

Oaxacan accounts present mole negro as the best-known of the state's seven moles, and as a dish made for patron-saint feasts, for the dead and for funerals. No dated source the sources cite fixes the first mole negro, and the origin of mole as a family is disputed between Puebla and Oaxaca.

Ingredients

Chilhuacle negro chilescleaned, seeded and toasted; some seeds are charred
Amount not stated
cascabel is a common substitute when chilhuacle is unavailable
Pasilla chilescleaned, seeded and toasted
Amount not stated
Mulato chilescleaned, seeded and toasted
Amount not stated
Ancho chilescleaned, seeded and toasted
Amount not stated
Chocolate
Amount not stated
Plantainfried until dark
Amount not stated
Bread or tortillatoasted or fried
thickens the paste
Amount not stated
Almondstoasted
Amount not stated
Peanutstoasted
Amount not stated
Amount not stated
Onionsliced and fried
Amount not stated
Garlicfried
Amount not stated
Tomatoroasted or fried
Amount not stated
Amount not stated
Amount not stated
Amount not stated
Lard or oilfor frying the paste
Amount not stated
Broth
Amount not stated
thins the paste while it simmers

Method

  1. Clean, seed and toast each dried chile separately over low heat until fragrant and pliable. Too little toasting leaves the sauce flat; too much makes it bitter.
  2. Char some of the chile seeds, since the sources tie the sauce's colour to them.
  3. Toast or fry the nuts, seeds, bread, plantain, raisins and spices, then fry the onion, garlic and tomato.
  4. Soak the toasted chiles and grind them with the fried ingredients and chocolate to a smooth paste, using a metate or blender.
  5. Fry the paste in hot lard or oil until it darkens and loses its raw edge.
  6. Thin with broth and simmer slowly, stirring, until the sauce is thick and glossy. Adjust salt and sweetness before serving.

Places

Oaxaca

Traditional preparation · Region evidence

Oaxaca lists mole negro among its seven moles. The sources give no single town of origin.

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Sources