Articles

Source-linked articles on foods, ingredients, traditions and equipment.

128 articles

Nori sheets, folded kombu, reddish-purple dulse, a bowl of cooked laver and sea salt arranged on a light wooden board against a warm ivory background.
Seaweeds intake

Seaweeds: a kitchen shaped by the coast

Nori, laverbread, Korean seaweed soup and carrageen pudding all begin as algae used for different jobs. This account covers seaweed names, coasts and farms, their histories, cooking, fermentation and composition.

· 19 min read
A mountain cheese wheel, blue cheese wedge, milk jug, fresh curds and pale butter rest on a wooden board against a softly lit ivory background.
Dairy intake

Milk, curd and the world's dairy stores

Follow milk into cheese, cultured drinks, butter, dried curds and sweets: a journey through the animals, seasons and household decisions behind the world's dairy foods.

· 14 min read
Amber kvass with mint and rye bread, cloudy chicha de jora with maize kernels, and clear sake with polished rice on a warm ivory surface.
Yeast intake

Yeast and the world's fermented drinks

People kept, traded and steered living ferments for thousands of years before anyone saw a yeast cell. This is that history, region by region, and a guide to what a yeast strain is today.

· 56 min read
A glass jug of soy milk, pale tofu on a bamboo mat, yellow soybeans and golden yuba draped over a wooden chopstick on a warm ivory surface.
Home equipment crafts

Soy milk, tofu and yuba: why the pot's shape matters

Soybeans become a drink, a set curd or a lifted skin depending on how the hot milk is held: still in a deep container, broken and pressed in a mould, or spread wide in a shallow pan.

· 18 min read
An open pale wooden fermentation cabinet holds white tempeh, koji rice and cloth-covered risen dough beside a small dial, with warm ivory negative space to the left.
Home equipment crafts

Fermentation cabinets: proofers, dehydrators and converted fridges

A proofer, a dehydrator with its trays out or an old fridge on a controller can keep cultures at a steady temperature. Whether it works depends on what sits inside: a lidded jar, a vented bag, a shallow tray or a crock.

· 21 min read
Ripened cheese, a bowl of mascarpone, sliced dry-cured sausage and smoked salmon arranged on a worn wooden board in soft daylight.
Preservation intake

Guard duty: the microbes hired to keep Listeria out of food

Food makers add protective bacteria, the antimicrobial peptides those bacteria make, and even bacteria-killing viruses to hold back Listeria. Each is chosen, dosed and aimed at a narrow target, which is what sets it apart from fermentation.

· 8 min read
A cloth-covered jar of amber kombucha with a pale floating culture stands beside black tea leaves, white sugar and a glass of kombucha on a warm ivory surface.
Kombucha intake

Kombucha: the drink, the culture and the decisions between them

Kombucha starts as sweet tea and becomes a changing mix of sugars, acids, alcohol and gas. This guide covers its history, the culture, substrates, vessels, measurements, bottling and what health research can support.

· 17 min read
Fresh brown shiitake, golden chanterelles and a shallow bowl of dried shiitake arranged on a light wooden board against a warm ivory background.
Fungi intake

Edible mushrooms around the world

Mushrooms can be a meal, a broth's flavour, a forest harvest or an indoor crop. This survey follows edible fungi across East Asia, Africa, the Americas and desert regions, their kitchen roles and how harvests are kept.

· 17 min read
Two glass jars of thick yoghurt beside fresh ricotta and a jug of milk, with an ivory slow-cooker crock behind them and open space to the left.
Home equipment crafts

A slow cooker as a small dairy

A slow cooker can heat milk for mozzarella, paneer, ricotta, mascarpone, quark and yogurt, but its heavy crock keeps heating after it is switched off. This is what each fresh cheese needs from it.

· 18 min read
Foamy fermented batter rises above a steel pot beside four spongy idli and a thin golden dosa folded on a white plate.
Starter cultures

The batter that floats: who raises idli and dosa?

Nobody adds a culture to idli and dosa batter, yet it rises overnight. A 1965 paper named the bacterium responsible; a 2019 study says that bacterium was probably a different genus.

· 7 min read
Watercolour study of a Roman amphora, amber fish sauce, dark allec paste, a brine vessel, silver fish and coarse salt on warm ivory paper.
Garum intake

Ancient names and types of garum

Garum, liquamen, allec, muria and haimation were different Roman and Greek fish products, and the words never kept one meaning. What the texts, a price list and one buried jar tell us.

· 8 min read
Watercolour of five cord-secured earthenware jars behind red-and-black lacquer dishes of meat sauce, mustard jiang and sliced raw fish, with blank bamboo slips.
Programme

A hundred and twenty jars of jiang for the king's table

Chinese texts were counting jars of jiang, pairing it with raw fish and venison, and making it largely from meat long before anyone wrote down soy sauce. How a whole class of sauces narrowed to a bean paste.

· 4 min read
Watercolour study of mustard leaves in an earthenware pot, dried olive-brown gundruk, three white radishes and amber radish broth in a brass bowl on a straw mat.
Techniques

Sour without salt: gundruk, sinki and the Himalayan pit

Nepali households turn surplus greens and radish into dried, sour staples with no salt in the jar. The pot, pit and laboratory methods give different timings, and the sources disagree on temperature and moisture.

· 9 min read
Watercolour cutaway of a small bark-covered Negidal smoking shelter with empty horizontal poles above a shallow round ember pit.
Smokehouses

Two metres of ground: a Negidal smoking shelter on the Amur

In August 1992 an expedition found Negidal smokehouses still in use on the Lower Amur. One recorded shelter, a shallow fire pit under a bark-covered pole frame, opens onto a salmon people's food and a river short of fish.

· 5 min read
Watercolour illustration of a Monnickendam smokehouse with nine ridge chimneys, smoked herring on a wooden spit and two golden-brown eels beside a quiet harbour and traditional fishing boat.
Smokehouses

Thirty-four smokehouses and one dam

Monnickendam had 34 smokehouses in the 1930s. The dam that turned the Zuiderzee fresh took the herring away, and the eel stayed. What the records say about the trade, and where they disagree.

· 6 min read
Plain stoneware crock of cherries, apricot halves and plums in amber spirit beside fresh fruit, green-yellow ume and coarse sugar on a wooden board.
Preservation catalogue

Summer in a crock: keeping fruit under strong spirit

Rumtopf in Germany, cherries in Lisbon, green ume in Japan: steeping fruit in strong spirit makes a preserve and a liqueur at once. How it works, what is known of its past, and where the evidence stops.

· 5 min read
Six fresh cream-white and ochre-brown desert truffles rest on sand beside coarse salt and a corked glass bottle of amber vinegar on a warm ivory surface.
Techniques

Vinegar for a truffle that will not wait

Desert truffles spoil within hours or days. Some Bahraini Bedouin pickle them in vinegar and salt, a practice with one line of evidence and no safety data. Here is what a safe acidified pickle needs, and what is missing.

· 8 min read
White mould-bound koji grains, crisp roasted chicken skin, coarse salt and clear amber garum with a steel spoon sit on a warm ivory counter.
Starter cultures

A bucket of meat, a warm room and ten weeks: the new garum

Restaurant and research kitchens now make garum from beef, chicken skin and peas, often with koji and weeks in a warm room. Their figures disagree, so does the science, and no home version has been shown to be safe.

· 6 min read
An Emmentaler wedge with varied round holes stands on a worn wooden board beside dried hay and a wooden bowl of ground hay in soft daylight.
Techniques

Twenty litres of gas: how Swiss cheese gets its holes

Propionic bacteria make the gas in Emmentaler, and hay particles decide where the holes start. Follow the gas through the warm cellar and a defect case, then on to Gruyère, Jarlsberg and Baby Swiss.

· 8 min read
Dried shiitake mushrooms on a round mesh tray beside fresh shiitake in a wooden bowl, with an open drying cabinet behind them.
Techniques

The dryer that dries its own air

A heat-pump dryer wrings the water out of the air it recirculates and reuses the heat. Drying shiitake took 0.85 kWh per kilogram against 6.67 for hot air, at a price in shrinkage. Here is how it works and how far the results carry.

· 7 min read
A halved blue cheese reveals irregular blue-grey veins along cavities in its pale paste, with a slim steel piercing needle beside it.
Techniques

Let the air in: how blue cheese grows from the inside

A blue cheese is a mould grown inside solid curd, so the cheesemaker has to let air in. Needles, open curd, cellars and caves do it, and six protected cheeses do it six different ways.

· 8 min read
A stoneware crock holds bumpy green cucumbers in pale brine with a plate weight, dill, garlic, horseradish and leaves, beside fresh cucumbers and aromatics.
Starter cultures

No starter in the tank: what turns a cucumber into a pickle

Commercial pickle tanks are open to the sky and have no culture poured in. Research on them, and on home and Polish village methods, shows a changing crowd of bacteria, vinegar in the brine and a gas problem called bloating.

· 8 min read
Fresh white button mushrooms fill a shallow carton beneath condensation-covered peeled-back wrap on a brushed-steel shelf.
Preservation catalogue

Five days or two: the cold chain that keeps a mushroom fresh

A picked mushroom keeps breathing and growing. A fridge 3 °C warmer than it should be can cut its life from a week to two days, and the cold that saves a button mushroom ruins a straw mushroom.

· 7 min read
A terracotta qvevri in a wooden stand, a lidded Korean onggi jar, a grey stoneware crock and an oak barrel arranged on an ivory surface in soft daylight.
Vessels intake

The vessel and the ferment: pots, vats, skins and pits

Jars, barrels, skins, leaves, pits and whole rooms decide much of what happens to fermented and cured food. This is how a container works on its contents, and how people in different places chose theirs.

· 71 min read
Six glass jars of softly set pale cream soy yogurt sit beside a jug of soy milk, a bowl of dried soybeans and a wooden spoon on a warm ivory surface.
Techniques

Six jars of soy milk and a spoonful of someone else's yogurt

Dairy yogurt sets because milk has casein and lactose. Soy, oat and nut milks have neither, so makers borrow cultures, add starch and agar, and still get gels that are thin or separate. What the research shows.

· 6 min read